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Men's Fashion & Self-Improvement => Men's Style and Clothing => Topic started by: enzo on February 05, 2012, 10:14:08 PM

Title: COAT AND TIE
Post by: enzo on February 05, 2012, 10:14:08 PM
any suggestions kung san pwedeng bumili ng mura pero may good quality na coat and tie or tuxedo gagamitin for my Js Prom.,, at kung anung design na din ang maganda tpos san din pwdeng mag patahi anu ba ang mas maganda magpatahi o bumili nalang??
Title: Re: COAT AND TIE
Post by: Chris on February 07, 2012, 07:35:39 AM
how much is your budget? mas ok na bumili ka na lang ng ready to wear tapos pa modify mo ng konti.

coats usualy cost Php 3,000+
Title: Re: COAT AND TIE
Post by: enzoafterdark on February 07, 2012, 02:33:15 PM
try mo sa sm dept store madami dun makakapili ka sa range of prices
Title: Re: COAT AND TIE
Post by: enzo on February 07, 2012, 05:57:27 PM
salamat sa mga reply mga 3-4k budget ko.,,
Title: Re: COAT AND TIE
Post by: vir on February 07, 2012, 07:06:07 PM
kung gusto mo ng coat na may style pa rin para di ka naman mukang formal na formal na parang ikakasal..sa mint maraming coat na 1-2k lng..
Title: Re: COAT AND TIE
Post by: Chris on February 08, 2012, 01:45:55 AM
enzo - dahil malakas ka sakin, I dedicate this newest blog post to you:

http://www.pinoyguyguide.com/2012/02/guys-guide-to-look-sharp-at-the-prom.html

;)
Title: Re: COAT AND TIE
Post by: hiei on February 08, 2012, 04:20:35 AM
enzo,
some random tips:

1. color: can't go wrong with navy instead of black w/c is only good for funerals. gray is good second choice.
2. for the jacket, i find the peak lapel more appealing than the americanized notch. 2 buttons would last you longer concerning trend.
3. a properly sort out and measured suit can make short and horizontally challenged individual look leaner and taller.
4. shoe: check the standard brogues and captoes instead of the square ones.
5. lapel width and it's relation to ties: the wider the lapel ng jacket and your dress shirt kwelyo is directly proportional to the width of your ties... kung medyo malapad ang kwelyo and jacket lapel... wider ties. kung skinnier then skinnier ties.
6. tux vs suit/business suit: formality in pinoy sense rather than the westerners. formal ang tux. the way to differentiate it to regular suits is the lapel and stripes sa sides ng pants have the same fabric na either satin or grograin then the rest of the fabric is wool. suit naman is anything na same fabric and color ang ensemble ng pants and jacket.... kung hiwalay ang jacket now you call it as blazer or sport jacket.


basics re: fit
1. high armhole is highly favorable it reduced the width of the shoulder and creates a leaner illusion.
2. try to take in the waist as narrow as possible to hide your tummy. BUT don't sacrifice comfort.
3. jacket length, as a rule of thumb use the 'cup the fingers' method. just check it @ google for detailed explanation. though a cropped jacket which is about 1-2 inches longer than sleeve can create a better looking proportion.
4. jacket sleeve should show cuffs of the shirt underneath. depends on your preference but mine's about 3/4 inch.
5. slimmer pants will complete the look. a 7.5in hem and no break can give you slimmer silhouette.

my advise: opt for the simple and classic  design. i noticed there's a growing trend sa pinas na pinoy designers play much on the lapel. i've seen one suit made by my friend's brother - francis libiran. too tacky played on the lapel naka-ilang layers ata. even the seasoned designers sa atin like randy ortiz... still can't get the proper suit as the saville trained tailors sa HK. critical component they missed is the basics. teka ano ba talga ang tamang fit? watch old to new james bond films all his suit and tux parehas lang ng cut.... kahit tumalon, itaas ang kamay at makipagsuntukan his suit is still on the right place. because there's a science behind it and syempre british he got his suit from season saville row tailors.

i might miss your question by a mile: best tip get the cheapest suit you can get off the rack. then have it altered. key here is to get the right size.
Title: Re: COAT AND TIE
Post by: enzo on February 12, 2012, 01:46:24 PM
salamat sa mga advises san ba mganda bumili ok lng ba sa dept. store?
Title: Re: COAT AND TIE
Post by: toperyo on February 12, 2012, 02:30:36 PM
aha! same to my problem yung coat and tie,pero i'll try to look like korean style
or basta babagay sakin at kung saan ako kumportable! enzo ganon din gawin mo kung saan ka mas okay at kaya mong dalin at hindi lumalayo sa uso!haha excited na ko sa senior's prom namin! haha!
ikaw? i think so. 8)
Title: Re: COAT AND TIE
Post by: enzo on February 14, 2012, 08:58:04 PM
haha oo nga eh exited na ako sa junior prom nmin.,, any comments dito sa nabili kong coat long sleeves and tie? suggestions are very well appreciated.(https://www.pinoyguyguide.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi534.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee348%2Ferichclarenz%2FPhoto0130.jpg&hash=50bc170b42f487b908725f92e630dc69b844875a)
Title: Re: COAT AND TIE
Post by: hiei on February 15, 2012, 02:45:55 AM
Quote from: enzo on February 14, 2012, 08:58:04 PM
haha oo nga eh exited na ako sa junior prom nmin.,, any comments dito sa nabili kong coat long sleeves and tie? suggestions are very well appreciated.(https://www.pinoyguyguide.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi534.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee348%2Ferichclarenz%2FPhoto0130.jpg&hash=50bc170b42f487b908725f92e630dc69b844875a)

1. basing from the pics. the jacket seems a size bigger.
2. sleeves too long. pero madali naman i shortened to show a quartr of an inch ng dress shirt mo sa loob.
3. unbutton the lower buttons so the jacket will flow freely and not restricting.
4. jacket length seems too long
5. darker tie will better match your jacket and shirt. you can get the same color and fabric ng piping ng jacket lapel.
Title: Re: COAT AND TIE
Post by: toperyo on February 15, 2012, 11:48:56 AM
dapat more on body fit o basta hindi maluwag  ;D ;D
Title: Re: COAT AND TIE
Post by: vir on February 16, 2012, 05:22:58 PM
Quote from: enzo on February 14, 2012, 08:58:04 PM
haha oo nga eh exited na ako sa junior prom nmin.,, any comments dito sa nabili kong coat long sleeves and tie? suggestions are very well appreciated.(https://www.pinoyguyguide.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi534.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee348%2Ferichclarenz%2FPhoto0130.jpg&hash=50bc170b42f487b908725f92e630dc69b844875a)

ok naman sya overall pero ganun din napansin ko,medyo malaki sya tingnan sau..bakit pink naisip mong kulay ng tie? dahil yun ang kulay ng gown ng prom date mo?..kung ganun nga,ok lng..pero i still prefer a darker color like hiei's suggestion (gray, black or brown)
Title: Re: COAT AND TIE
Post by: enzo on February 16, 2012, 06:22:22 PM
salamat sa mga replies.,, im going back to sm tomorrow para papalitan yung coat ng smaller size.,, maganda ba tingnan ang coat kung medyo fitted? tpos ung tie anu bang maganda white or black or should i preffer bow?
Title: Re: COAT AND TIE
Post by: hiei on February 17, 2012, 05:41:48 AM
Quote from: enzo on February 16, 2012, 06:22:22 PM
salamat sa mga replies.,, im going back to sm tomorrow para papalitan yung coat ng smaller size.,, maganda ba tingnan ang coat kung medyo fitted? tpos ung tie anu bang maganda white or black or should i preffer bow?

the key is to get the right size. kahit slim fit pero sobra naman liit, mukha lang suman. having the right fit will complement your physique. an ill fitting suit kahit pa daang libo ang presyo pangit pa rin tingnan. mas gustuhin ko pa ang tamang sukat na suit na di butas bulsa ko.

kung same color suit, i'll pick a darker tie to complement the whole ensemble.... kung bow tie na black mag-white shirt ka. but if your prom is not a black tie affair. wag na, that's why those individuals who knows a thing or two on wearing a suit never wear black suit sa party unless black tie affair or may patay. otherwise a black suit + black bow tie + white shirt..... boss, chit namin ;)
Title: Re: COAT AND TIE
Post by: incognito on August 29, 2012, 12:07:07 PM
if you want to buy really nice suits at reasonable price, try nyo Azur Lapis Lazuli. It's a local brand  pero magsisimula na din silang mag open ng store sa Singapore.  Meron sila sa Landmark Trinoma, The Ramp Glorietta 3, at sa Marquee Mall Angeles. price range ng coat/jacket is  5000-6000. dress pants is 1500. long sleeved shirts 1500 din. so buong set nasa 9-10k range.  Pwede ding made to order para eksakto yung fit sayo.  Just schedule a meeting with their designer. Mas mahal nga lang (15-20k).  Very versatile mga gawa nila. pwedeng pang casual events din.  check out their facebook page or google the designer Melchor Guinto para makita yung mga gawa nila.
di ba, parang advertisement lang. haha.
Title: Re: COAT AND TIE
Post by: hiei on August 29, 2012, 03:41:46 PM
sadly still the same achilles heel ng local designers sa atin... the suit. even my friend's brother whose now a famous and go to designer sa atin sa pinas.... di pa rin makuha ang tamang fit and materials to create an awesome suit that can at least rival vietnamese tailors... di ko pwedeng sabihin ang hong kong tailor coz most of these old timers are trained by seasoned saville row tailors, totally different league from us. so far, pinaka-ok na nakwento sa akin na tailor is from cornells. mura pa singil without the designer price tag :)

things i find wrong sa azur collection is inconsistency and identity crisis...
inconsistency ng design i mean the short length suit jacket shows na modern ang take nya with the suit but some pictures show longer sleeves and even baggier and long pants matched with short jacket. saka lahat kulang ng waist suppression na integral part ng modern suit.
identity crisis, similar flaws with the inconsistency di mo alam kung modern with the short jacket o classic with the baggier pants.

not really picking on these designers but c'mon we pay our hard earned money kaya we should expect at least a nice fitting suit ;)

sample ng suit made by GW from HK worn by a common tao :) muscular legs and punggok.. typical asian physique
(https://www.pinoyguyguide.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2F25.media.tumblr.com%2Ftumblr_m8vjhnzoVj1qazg1ao1_1280.jpg&hash=a5076c14c58ba57dc92cc07e1c4457a49b5bd41e)

laki ng calves
(https://www.pinoyguyguide.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2F24.media.tumblr.com%2Ftumblr_m8vjhnzoVj1qazg1ao2_1280.jpg&hash=b110a9d522f5b34d7c57bc342c2db2e70f70048b)

but with proper suit, di sya mukhang muscular and looks taller too
(https://www.pinoyguyguide.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2F25.media.tumblr.com%2Ftumblr_lufdhaVuSJ1qazg1ao4_1280.jpg&hash=668577c5a41c34774d8153c35c75b78f0ae6baa9)
Title: Re: COAT AND TIE
Post by: incognito on August 29, 2012, 04:55:16 PM
^obviously, i haven't been around much. sa tingin mo hiei, bakit kaya achilles heel ng local designers/tailors ang paggawa ng suit? i mean, di ba it's supposed to be a skill. and talent perhaps. di naman siguro tayo kulang sa skills and talent. at magaling tayo kumopya. so ano kaya ang problema?  is it because the Philippines is not really a suit wearing country?  yung availability ng magandang materials kaya nakakaapekto din dito?
Title: Re: COAT AND TIE
Post by: hiei on August 30, 2012, 12:40:48 AM
honestly, i can only offer speculation kasi di ko alam their reason behind their design. but what i understand about suits is - it's an art. yup magaling tayo kumopya kaya people who go to cornells bring their properly  fitted MTM or OTR or bespoke suits para kopyahin. biggest difference kasi ng HK tailors sa atin from scratch gagawin kapag bespoke. walang pattern na susundan kungdi gagawin based on your body. then kung natapos may ilang series pa ng fitting kasi di ibig sabihin ng natapos perfect na agad, kasi iba ang actual na pagsuot ng suot and how it affects the fit on your daily life. ang ultimate guide nga about perfect fit apart from being streamlined sa katawan dapat comfortable rin at di obstructive sa pag-galaw.... hirap nyan imagine if you want slim fit suit na di nakakagalaw ka pa rin ng maayos. best example is suit ni james bond... nakipagsuntukan, tumalon at barilan na ganda pa rin lapat ng suit hehehe product ng saville row tailors kaya perfect to a T.

with materials di naman problem kasi readily available naman ang mga tela like loro piana, vitale barberis canonico... same with italian labels yan lang rin kinukuha kaya ang raw materials cost can be considered constant ang nag-vary talga is the fee you pay for the service ng design, cut, sew ng suit.

lastly, ako recent ko lang natagpuan ang OTR or off the rack suit na bagay sa akin. it's not italian and certainly not expensive but the fit is perfect. my suits vary from european, american labels to MTM or made to measure... pero sa off the rack or suits na nabibili  mo lang without prior fitting ko nahanap na fit sa akin :) alteration? yup may kontin alteration sa waist suppression, but the critical point na high armhole is surprisingly inherent na sa suit na nakuha ko. kadalasan the high armhole suits can be availed kung MTM, bespoke and high end suit.
Title: Re: COAT AND TIE
Post by: incognito on August 30, 2012, 07:10:05 PM
^How much would suits normally go for in the states, MTM and OTR?
And uy, you should make a thread about bespoke clothing. Seems like an interesting topic.
How I wish I can have all my clothes tailored. Kaso problem ata jan is mejo mahal  or kung di naman mahal, di pulido ang gawa ng tailor.  Gusto ko try  dito: http://iamdeerhunter.blogspot.com. I haven't read anything about his rates. Sana di mahal. haha
Title: Re: COAT AND TIE
Post by: hiei on August 30, 2012, 11:46:43 PM
price very much varies depending sa label & cloth:
MTM = $400 to $2,000++
OTR = $200 t0 $3,000
as for bespoke nasa average ng $6,000. the reason why lumalabas mahal pa ang OTR is due to label for example brioni OTR can easily shoot to $3,000 agad. while gumagawa ng MTM are just brick and mortar tailor na nagsisimula pa lang kaya di maka-charge ng malaki because they still need to prove the quality of their craft. but it doesn't mean mura easily equates to crap. parehas rin sa mga regular clothes na very tacky mayroon rin euro thrash sa suits na dahil may pangalan they charge an arm and leg pero fused lang ang construction compared to some affordable MTM na tinahi and fully canvassed pa.

re: bespoke, i don't have first hand experience yet with bespoke. siguro pagtumama na ko sa lotto hehe i'm fine right now with my OTR label that fit perfectly :) kung budget meal here are my suggestion.

thick as thieves LA http://www.thickasthievesla.com
- best bang for the buck MTM especially if you prefer panahon ng mod since dito galing inspiration ni jason for his handcrafted suits. may limit si jason, hanggang 42in chest size ang maximum ng designs nya. anyone bigger than should looke elsewhere. marami syang collection ng cloth to choose from, kung mapapansin mo nauuso sa atin ang may sheen or makintab. usually sharkskin cloth yun from the mod era and he has one that will make my friend's brother fully designed suit look cheap. na-compare ko gawa nya sa isa sa mga parties i attended last year where suot ko TAT suit ko definitely mines cost so much less.

(https://www.pinoyguyguide.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F-5cncFOJN1g8%2FTjQnFk5EaNI%2FAAAAAAAAA3E%2F20tbPBWX8b0%2Fs1600%2Fcurtis-2.jpg&hash=1e560487add09638549be51098d9b0875569b301)


suitsupply
- the label afaik is from netherlands pero ang mga suits nila gawa sa china. very wide selection, ang nagustuhan ko yung washington line for being slim without being too modern kasi classic pa rin ang cut in terms of jacket lenght, buttoning, lapel size, high armhole and higher waistline pants. they both have MTM and OTR service. swerte kung meron sa lugar nyo which currently sa NY and washington DC lang sila meron  sa US :(

here are some notable suitsupply fits: 1. washington 2. paris 3. napoli... probably my next one will be napoli for its notch lapel.
(https://www.pinoyguyguide.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fchicagomag.com%2Fimages%2F2012%2F0512%2FC201205-ST-Suitsupply-Business-Night-Out-Summer-Weekend.jpg&hash=eff6f80e36ab9ed47921236b0638e039bdc86c00)

here's my suitsupply washington, waist suppression lang pinagawa but everythings perfect - high armhole and surgeon's cuff
(https://www.pinoyguyguide.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi17.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb92%2F13sinned%2F1-13.jpg&hash=2d837b7d93ab7446b036bbb4f31629e7d5b44e5f)

btw you can check cornells @ 8485 Kalayaan Avenue  Makati City, Philippines

Title: Re: COAT AND TIE
Post by: incognito on August 31, 2012, 01:09:57 AM
^thanks a lot. dami na naman natutunan from you.  ;D